Across the Alps by Rail
Five countries, two of the world's great trains, no car required.
Distance
1400 km / 869 mi
Days
12
Difficulty
Easy (1/5)
High point
Bernina Pass (railway) · 2,253 m
Shape
Loop
You don't have to walk across the Alps to cross them. This classic rail loop strings together five countries and the two most famous scenic trains on the continent, the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express, from the French Alps through Switzerland and the Italian Dolomites to Austria and Slovenia. It's the route for travellers who want the high passes framed in a panorama window with a coffee in hand, stopping in a great mountain town every night. The Alps at their most civilised.
Why walk it
- The Glacier Express, Zermatt to St. Moritz, the slowest express train in the world
- The Bernina Express over the Alps' highest rail pass, Switzerland to Italy, UNESCO-listed
- Car-free Zermatt and the Matterhorn without a single hairpin to drive
- End in Ljubljana, the Alps' most underrated capital, gateway to the Julian lakes
When to go
Countries you cross
- 🇫🇷French Alps
- 🇨🇭Swiss Alps
- 🇮🇹Italian Alps
- 🇦🇹Austrian Alps
- 🇸🇮Julian Alps
Leg by leg
Each leg is a great journey in itself. Here's the loop, with travel times and what you'll see from the window.
- Leg1
Geneva / Annecy Chamonix
🇫🇷 FranceMountain town90 km / 56 mi2.5 hrsBegin beneath Mont Blanc in Chamonix, reached by the scenic Mont Blanc Express up from the valley, to set the tone.
- Leg2
Chamonix Zermatt
🇨🇭 SwitzerlandCar-free resort130 km / 81 mi4 hrsAcross into Switzerland and up the Mattertal to car-free Zermatt, your first Matterhorn evening and the start of the great rail lines.
- Leg3
Zermatt St. Moritz
🇨🇭 SwitzerlandAlpine resort290 km / 180 mi8 hrs▲ 2,033 mThe Glacier Express, eight hours, 291 bridges, and the Oberalp Pass, the single most famous train journey in the Alps.
- Leg4
St. Moritz Tirano
🇮🇹 ItalyBorder town60 km / 37 mi2.5 hrs▲ 2,253 mThe Bernina Express over the highest rail crossing in the Alps and down the spiralling Brusio viaduct into Italy.
- Leg5
Tirano Bolzano / Dolomites
🇮🇹 ItalyAlpine city200 km / 124 mi4 hrsThrough the Italian lakes and vineyards to Bolzano, the gateway city to the Dolomites and their pale, theatrical peaks.
- Leg6
Bolzano Salzburg
🇦🇹 AustriaBaroque city270 km / 168 mi4.5 hrsOver the Brenner Pass into Austria and on to Salzburg, all baroque domes, fortress, and Sound-of-Music backdrop.
- Leg7
Salzburg Ljubljana
🇸🇮 SloveniaCapital city290 km / 180 mi4.5 hrsSouth through the Austrian lakes to Ljubljana, green, walkable, and the perfect launchpad for Lake Bled to finish.
Get the pass for this trip
Crossing this many countries, a rail pass usually beats buying each leg separately. Compare your options before you book.
The biggest mistake
Reserving the pass but not the scenic trains. The Glacier and Bernina Express both require a seat reservation on top of a rail pass, and they sell out in summer. Turn up without one and you'll be watching the views from a regional service instead.
How it’s done
The same route, packaged for different travelers. Pick the version that fits your time, fitness, and how you like to sleep.
The full loop
12 days5 countries, both scenic expresses, a stop each night
Rail lovers who want the complete cross-Alps journey, unhurried.
Swiss scenic core
7 daysZermatt, the Glacier Express, and the Bernina Express
First-timers who want the two great trains without the full loop.
Winter markets edition
8 daysSalzburg, Innsbruck, and Ljubljana by rail in December
Travellers chasing snow-globe Christmas markets car-free.
Bases & springboards
The towns that work as trailheads, rest stops, and the nights you’ll want a real bed before or after the route.
Chamonix
$$$$Mont Blanc on your doorstep, the Alps at their most serious.
ValaisZermatt
$$$$$The Matterhorn, a car-free village, and the best splurge in the Alps.
SalzburgSalzburg
$$$Baroque city, alpine doorstep, culture before the mountains.
Ljubljana
$$Europe's most charming small capital, and Slovenia's front door.
Questions, answered
- Do I need a rail pass or point-to-point tickets?
- For a multi-country loop like this, a Eurail/Interrail Global Pass is usually the simplest and best value, one pass covering all five countries. Note that the headline scenic trains, the Glacier Express and Bernina Express, are covered by the pass for the ride but require a separate paid seat reservation, which you should book well ahead in summer.
- Is it really possible to cross the Alps without a car?
- Yes. The Alps have the densest, most scenic rail network in the world, and this route is built entirely on it. Some of the most desirable towns, like Zermatt, are deliberately car-free and reached only by train. Between the panoramic expresses and frequent regional services, you can see the high Alps end to end without ever touching a steering wheel.
- When is the best time for an Alps rail trip?
- June to September for long days, green passes, and every line running, the prime window. December is the other sweet spot, when the same route links up the great Christmas markets of Salzburg, Innsbruck, and Ljubljana and the scenery turns to snow. Avoid the shoulder weeks when some seasonal scenic services pause.
- How many days do you need, and can you do a shorter version?
- The full loop runs about twelve days with a stop each night, which keeps the train legs short and leaves time to actually see each town. If that's too long, the Swiss scenic core, roughly a week around Zermatt, the Glacier Express, and the Bernina Express, captures the two headline trains without the wider circuit. There's also a December version that links the Salzburg, Innsbruck, and Ljubljana Christmas markets by rail.
- Where do you start and end, and how do you get home?
- The loop begins around Geneva or Annecy in the French Alps and ends in Ljubljana, so the simplest plan is to fly into Geneva and home from Ljubljana, both well-connected airports. If you'd rather a true round trip, Ljubljana links back toward the start by rail, but the one-way, open-jaw routing wastes no time backtracking. Build the legs around an overnight in each town rather than racing through.
- Can you break the journey to explore places like Lake Bled or the Dolomites?
- Absolutely, and you should. The route is built around a stop every night, and two of those towns are gateways: Bolzano opens straight onto the Dolomites for a few days among the pale peaks, and Ljubljana is under an hour from Lake Bled to finish on the water. Add nights wherever a place grabs you; the freedom to do exactly that is the whole appeal of crossing the Alps by rail.
More signature routes
Other great crossings, treks, and drives across the Alps.
Tour du Mont Blanc
The Alps' most famous trek, one mountain, three countries, eleven days.
- Distance
- 170 km
- Stages
- 11
- Grade
- Strenuous
Walker's Haute Route
Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, the connoisseur's high traverse.
- Distance
- 200 km
- Stages
- 13
- Grade
- Tough
Alta Via 1 (Dolomites)
The Dolomites' great hut-to-hut walk, north to south.
- Distance
- 120 km
- Stages
- 9
- Grade
- Moderate–strenuous
Read before you go
First-Time PlanningSlovenia by Train or Car: Which Is Better?
Slovenia is small and stunning, but its Julian Alps are thin on trains, so do you need a car? An honest guide to train versus car for Slovenia and the Julian Alps.
9 min read
First-Time PlanningSwiss Alps by Train or Car: Which Is Better?
Switzerland has the world's best rail network and famously car-free villages, so do you even need a car? An honest guide to train versus car for the Swiss Alps.
9 min read
Seasonal PlanningThe Best Time to Visit the Swiss Alps
A month-by-month guide to the Swiss Alps: the September sweet spot, high summer in the Jungfrau and Zermatt, world-class ski winters, and where the lakes still work in the shoulder.
7 min read
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